Fire in the Triangle: Battle Certified Angus Beef

Competition Dining has been the brainchild of host and restaurateur Jimmy Crippen.  By dividing the state into four regions, he hosts Iron Chef style competition featuring local chefs and ingredients.  On Wednesday July 10^th, my wife (on her birthday) and I had the pleasure of attending one of the battles in Fire in the Triangle.  The battle we witnessed was between Chef Scott James of the Midtown Grill in Raleigh and Chef Ryan Payne of Weathervane in Chapel Hill.

For days ahead of the battle, Megan and I were speculating about what the secret ingredient could be.  We feared foods like rabbit, mussels, egg, pigs’ feet, or tomato.  Thankfully, Jimmy Crippen announced that we were at battle Certified Angus Beef!  We were stoked, as we knew both chefs would prepare amazing dishes. 

First keep in mind that this is a blind contest.  In other words, you have no idea which chef prepared which dish until the end of the entire meal.  This way, you can’t vote a better score for your favorite chef and you have to be honest and accurate.  As far as the voting, you judge each dish on six categories: Presentation, Aroma, Flavor, Accompaniments (the things on the dish other than the secret ingredient), Creativity (with the secret ingredient), and Execution of the secret ingredient.  In each category, you can score the dish between a 0 and 5, with a 5 meaning that the dish is greater than what you would expect to get at a very accomplished restaurant.  The audience makes up 70% of the total vote, while the expert, professional judges are the other 30%.  I loved the idea that my opinion would get to count in the results.  Each chef prepares three dishes: an appetizer, a main course, and a dessert.  I’ll be honest, I was both excited and nervous about what desserts the chefs would prepare using angus beef. 

Course one was a Dr. Pepper Bulgogi Skirt Steak, with Radish and Cucumber Kim Chee, Candied Ginger, and Red Rice.  Additionally, there was a small bok choy topping the rice.  I really enjoyed the Asian influences in the first dish, as well as the spiciness of the Kim Chee.  The beef was sliced thinly and was subtly sweet, from the Dr. Pepper, however, it was very fatty and chewy.  The rice was also a little mealy and slightly dry.  This was my first red rice experience, but it seems to be very similar to brown rice in flavor and texture.  While voting should be a secret, since the competition is over, I see no harm in publishing my votes.  I gave this dish a 19 out of 30 with high scores on presentation and accompaniments, and lower scores on creativity and execution.  Later on, we learned this dish was prepared by Chef James of Midtown Grill. 

Course two was a Rosemary Smoked Sirloin, Black Bean and Corn Succotash, Crispy Duck Fat Potatoes, and a Citrus Butter.  The aroma of this dish was amazing.  The potatoes were more of a thin French Fry, but the duck fat, made the flavor pop.  I could have easily eaten a plateful of the potatoes.  No one at my table could taste the rosemary flavor of the sirloin, but it was cooked perfectly medium rare and the lime-flavored citrus butter was a great addition to enhance the steak.  The succotash was good too, but I am not a black bean fan.  Surrounding the dish were a few, well placed drops of  Aged Balsamic Vinegar.  I gave this dish a 22/30 with high scores on everything but the flavor, since without the rosemary flavors, the sirloin was fairly plain, until you add the butter.  This dish was made by Chef Payne of Weathervane. 

Course three was Certified Angus Beef Bolognese topped with a Goat and Ashe County Cheese Tortellini and surrounded by Portobella Mushrooms, Basil, and Extra Virgin Olive Oil.  For starters, the tortellini was amazing!  I mean, these could easily constitute an amazing meal in either restaurant with a simple sauce.  The tartness of the goat cheese accentuated the soft, delicate pasta.  The Bolognese did not impress me though.  Honestly, it reminded me of a high-class Sloppy Joe.  I don’t know why Chef James chose to grind up CAB and mix it with peppers and a tomato base.  I gave this my lowest score of the night, a 14/30, with a high score for accompaniment only.  Strangely, this was also the dish that the professional judges gave their highest score of the night. 

Course four was a Braised Sirloin with Skirt Steak Ragu, Potato Dumplings, and “House Made” Ricotta.  Additionally, there were heated Kalamata Olives surrounding the Ragu.  The steak was very reminiscent of a beef stew.  I did find the irony in the fact that both chefs decided to shred the CAB and put in into a tomato based sauce.  The ricotta was a nice creamy touch that added texture and flavor to the Ragu.  The dumplings were basically just gnocchi, but I loved the addition to the dish.  I scored Chef Payne’s dish an 18/30.  I scored the flavor at a four and creativity at a 2, with everything else a 3.  This would be a good, hearty dish, if served in a large quantity, but for Competition Dining, I guess I just expected a little more. Don’t worry, the creativity overflowed in the desserts. 

Course five was “Meat and Potatoes.”  It was a Cocoa and Molasses crusted CAB Sirloin with a Rosemary Sponge Cake, Balsamic cooked Cherries and a Purple Sweet Potato Custard.  The concept of meat and potatoes for dessert is slightly disturbing, however this was my favorite dish of the entire night.  The sliced sirloin was sweet, the cherries slightly tart due to the Balsamic, and the purple sweet potato custard was just sweet enough to add a great sauce to the dish without overpowering it.  The sponge cake was my favorite though.  The rosemary was very subtle, which was probably good for a dessert.  But the cake had a great dense texture and flavor to die for.  It was all topped with crunchy fried sweet potato strings.  I loved this dish and scored it my highest of the night, a 27/30 with many fives and the lone three for aroma.  Chef James was the author of this dish, which I hope makes it onto Midtown Grill’s dessert menu soon. 

Course six was another dessert titled “Meat and Potatoes.”  This Chef Payne dish was a Potato Doughnut with a Salted Caramel glaze, a Potato Doughnut hole rolled in cinnamon and sugar, Chocolate Candy Covered Skirt Steak, a Lemon Mousse and a Watermelon Jam.  The doughnut came out warm and just melted in your mouth.  This dish had style and finesse.  The sweetness of one doughnut was offset by the slight saltiness of the other.  The Lemon Mousse had a creaminess that could stand-alone or be used as a dip to sweeten the doughnut.  The watermelon jam really didn’t set and most people at my table couldn’t even tell it was there aside from a slight pinkness to a small part of the dish.  Everything to this point was exceptional.  The chocolate steak really didn’t add anything to the dish.  In fact, it was almost like an afterthought that was used just to add the secret ingredient.  While I like chocolate covered bacon, I won’t be ordering chocolate covered steak any time soon.  I gave this dish a 22/30.  The aroma, flavor, presentation, and accompaniments were all exceptional, but the execution of the secret ingredient was uninspired.  I would gladly take more of the doughnuts though. 

At the end of a wonderful night of food and company, Chef Payne of Weathervane was declared the winner.  He scored an approval rating of 72.6% to Chef James’ 69.3%.  I was wrong about predicting which chef made which dish, as well as which chef would win.  Regardless, both chefs prepared amazing food and the camaraderie of the chefs and respect for each other could easily be seen.  In fact, the chefs announced that both of them could be doing a guest chef night at the other’s restaurant.  Be sure to check that out, I bet it will be great.  I wish more tickets were available for other Fire in the Triangle battles, but they sold out very quickly. 

Jimmy Crippen has shot lightning into the NC culinary scene.  I am so happy to say that the Competition Dining will be back next year, because I can’t wait.  Also, I can’t wait until the final battles.  The winners of the Fire on the Dock, Fire on the Rock, Fire in the Triangle, and Fire in the Triad will all compete in a grand finale that will most likely take place in the Raleigh area.  I would advise anyone with an interest in supreme cuisine to be on the lookout for those tickets, they will gone quickly.  

Review of Rockwell's American Grill, Cary

    Dean Ogan, the owner of Rocky Top Hospitality, has a hit.  After closing our two favorite restaurants in Raleigh, Bogart's and Red Room, and opening upscale burger joints, Draft and Tribeca Tavern, our faith in Ogan was dwindling, but Rockwell's has American classic written all over it.  That is, as long as it keeps up the high quality people associate with Rocky Top.  I must say that I am excited about the idea of family-style dining, which Rockwell's offers.  This is something that you don’t see done very often, but it can be a welcome experience.  

    Megan ordered one of their gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches.  She got the Local Brie with thick cut bacon and house made Granny Smith apple chutney, all on honey wheat bread.  The grilled cheese was good.  The bacon overpowered the subtle Brie, but overall, it was a good sandwich.  For a side, Megan ordered the Smoked Gouda Mac n' Cheese.  It was creamy and delicious, plus a Smoked Gouda is one of her favorite cheeses.  While it wasn't the best side dish on the menu, you can't go wrong by ordering it and I guarantee she’ll have it at least one more time.

    Rockwell's offered me my first opportunity at a Deep-South classic, Chicken and Waffles.  I'll definitely be back for this dish.  The chicken was a thick, full breast of chicken, hand breaded, then fried to a deep golden brown.  The waffle was fresh-made too.  It was similar to a Belgian waffle, but thicker, and able to handle and pair with the chicken. The chicken & waffles comes with a small bowl of the chef’s daily marmalade; today’s was strawberry, which was sweet, but unimpressive aside from the fact that it was made in-house.  To top it all off, they advertise Kenny’s Honey.  It is a locally made, bee-farm-fresh honey created about five miles from Rockwell’s.  The honey was simply amazing!  I use honey often, but I guess I have never had fresh honey before.  I literally would have drunk a glass of it.  The dish was incredible, and to top off the hot chicken with a piece of waffle drizzled with honey was magic in my mouth.  I can’t wait to take friends here to try this. 

            For my side, I hit gold with the Potato Dumplings & Slab Bacon.  Our waiter described these as “French fry pillows”, which was a fairly accurate description of the side.  I would explain these as slightly fried gnocchi, just twice the length.  Then, it is mixed with diced slab bacon, small slices of asparagus, and an abundance of blue cheese.  While, we were both hesitant about this side, it was fantastic.  The cheese was slightly melted on the hot dumplings.  The salty crunch of the bacon and the tartness of the asparagus perfectly complement everything.  We devoured this side!  It is unlike anything else that you might find at a restaurant and it was fabulously delicious. 

            Rockwell’s American Grill provided us with a fantastic lunch.  The waiter was knowledgeable about all of the dishes, and the manager took the time to visit with us and explain the honey, their desserts, etc.  We couldn’t have asked for a more pleasant time or a better lunch than we got at Rockwell’s. 

Addendum: We went back two weeks later with one of our favorite couples, after raving to them about Rockwell’s.  Wow, had things changed for the worse.  The rapidness of the decline is shocking.  We sat for twenty minutes and still no waitress, we had to go back to the hostess to ask for one.  Then, she had no knowledge of the food.  Our friends asked what two of the dishes were like, and instead of knowing or even finding out, she just said that she didn’t know…end of discussion.   First off, the menu had changed, less than 2 months into opening.  Prices had leveled off, many decreased, and only the grilled cheese combo increased, some selections had changed, and Kenny’s honey, which we obsessed about, was removed from the menu (it is still there, on every table, but it is not advertised).  Megan still got the Chicken & Waffles, but the marmalade was super tart and the chicken was no longer the fresh, thick breast; it was two chicken fingers that you could find in any frozen section of a grocery store.  My pastrami sandwich had very little mustard or cheese on it, the pastrami itself was great, but I needed more on it.  We never got refills on our drinks, and both of our friends’ sandwiches were sloppily made.  All in all, for Rockwell’s to have deteriorated that fast is astounding.  We had high hopes, but I am definitely worried about it.  We'll give it one more try to figure out which day's visit was more accurate.  

Category	Scale 1-5 stars
Food Quality
Food Creativity
Service
Atmosphere
Value for the Price

Taste Carolina Food Tour: Downtown Raleigh

            It has taken a while to write this post, but I guarantee that this one was worth the wait.  For my birthday on the 15th, Megan took me on a Taste Carolina Food Tour of Downtown Raleigh.   This was easily the best birthday present that she could ever get me.  Not only was it very enjoyable, but also the fact that we were able to visit six restaurants in one afternoon was epic.  Whether you are new to the area, a foodie, or just looking to expand your culinary horizons, the Taste Carolina Food Tours are for you. 

            We met our tour guide, Susan, at the Briggs buildings (the oldest “skyscraper” in Raleigh) at 3:15.  Throughout the entire journey, Susan was very knowledgeable about the city, the restaurants we visited, and the food scene in general.  She could explain any of the seven-plus walking tours that Taste Carolina offers through the state and her warm and inviting personality made the experience a superb one. If you haven’t taken one of these tours, then you have no idea what you are missing.

            The first restaurant we went to was Sitti.  Yes, we have been there before, and enjoyed it, but this time, we had the opportunity to try new things.  We started with baskets of their fresh-baked pitas, which of course, were delicious.  They brought us a Pom Spritzer; a combination of fresh pomegranate juice topped with Sprite and a lime.  It was colorful and a great opener to our meal.  Then, we were brought their hommos (hummus), pureed chickpeas whipped with tahini, garlic, and lemon juice, then topped with mint.  The hommos was good and creamy, but nothing vastly different from the norm.  We had (and I’m probably going to butcher this name since it was not on the menu) a sitar pie.  It was an oven mezze (pizza-like) topped with sumac, sesame, oregano, and a drizzled yogurt topping with Lebanese pickles and diced tomatoes.  This was a good combination of flavors, though my American palate really wanted cheese on this, feta perhaps.  Lastly, we had falafel, which was out-of-this-world.  We have never had falafel before, and both Megan and I loved it.  Realistically, it is just a chickpea ball that is fried and in a bowl of tahini sauce, but we just couldn’t get enough of it.  The crunchy exterior with smooth interior was a great contrast.  While it looked like a meatball, the blend of flavors just pops in your mouth.  We’ll definitely order these on our next trip to Sitti.

            Stop two was at The Mint Restaurant.  Built out of an old bank, the Mint is an architectural wonder, with the original, six-ton vault door in the lobby.  The inside of the restaurant is absolutely beautiful!  I now understand why this is one of Raleigh’s most elite restaurants.  We started with a shot of a pineapple cosmopolitan, which was one of the best mixed drinks that I’ve had in a long time.  Chef Chris Hylton is a true culinary genius.  He was trying out items for the new winter menu, so we got a great treat out of the Mint.  He created a Sake-brined Filet grilled medium-rare and served over course, southern style grits and micro greens.  Beneath all of this wonder food were a combination of sauces, a chive oil sauce and a star anise and juniper berry sauce.  The combined Filet with the grits, dipped in the berry sauce was one of the most heavenly things that my mouth has ever tasted (sorry the picture is sideways, Blogger keeps loading it the wrong way).  Oh, then Chef Chris came up personally to deliver me a double chocolate brownie with blueberry compote and homemade ice cream.  Based on the food and his personality, I can see why Chef Chris is such a popular and in-demand chef.  I can guarantee that for the next holiday/birthday/whatever, we’ll be making our reservations at The Mint.

            Our third stop was at an underground bar called the Foundation.  An architect literally dug this bar out of the foundation of 213 Fayetteville St., hence the name.  We got to try two of their handcrafted libations.  Megan got the King’s Mountain Gimlet, which is a combination of gin, rosemary syrup, and lime.  While, I typically am not a gin fan, the rosemary and lime cover up the alcohol taste and make this a rather delectable combination.  I had the Queen Anne’s Revenge, which was a combination of Crown 9 spiced rum, brown sugar, a whole egg, and nutmeg, blended together.  The rum was a little strong, but the combination was almost like a spicy, holiday eggnog.

            After a short trip on the R-line bus in Raleigh, and about a half-mile hike through Peace College, we got to Market Restaurant.  Now, Market focuses on local, organic food, under the leadership of owner/chef Chad McIntyre.  In fact, they were a finalist in the Best Dish in NC contest.  Here, we were served their "crack" fries.  These fries are triple cooked (boiled, sliced, then fried twice) for extra crispiness.  Then, they are topped with truffle oil, fresh herbs, and asiago cheese.  On the side is Chef Chad's homemade ketchup, which is legendary.  The triple-cooked fries were crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside.  With the flavor combinations, the intense herbs, and the asiago, this dish is seriously addicting.  Chef Chad also cooked up a Saffron Paella with pork sausage.  The spanish rice was mixed with spicy pork sausage slices, corn, mushrooms, and stewed tomatoes.  Megan liked this dish, but honestly, I thought it was very bland.  I thought another one of the guests on the tour was spot-on when he asked for something to add more flavor to this; they brought him salt and pepper.  Salt definitely would have helped, but this dish didn't have the classic blend of flavors that you usually expect from paella.  Megan still wants to return to Market someday, but honestly, I am very hesitant.  The fun, upbeat ambiance of the restaurant was dulled by the paella.

            Next door to Market was our next stop, Escazu Chocolates.  This is one of about a dozen places in the entire country that grinds their own cocoa beans and completes the entire candy process: going from bean to bar.  As soon as you enter the store, the smell of the chocolate being made is heavenly.  We have been here before, and I guarantee that we will be back.  This store is one of the true treasures of Raleigh.  We were served their house-made hot chocolate.  It was utterly fabulous; the best hot chocolate that I have ever had.  But, honestly, I don't want to talk about the hot chocolate, I want to talk about the $30 worth of chocolate that we bought.  Megan got a half-dozen chocolate, bacon, & rosemary truffles.  She loves them, in fact, they are her most treasured candy.  I can't get past the overpowering rosemary taste which washes out the bacon and chocolate.  I got three of their chocolate bars, a Beaufort Bar (65% dark chocolate with sea salt), a vanilla chili bar (74% dark chocolate with chipotle chili bits and vanilla), and a Dark Goat's Milk bar (60% dark chocolate mixed with goat's milk).  While all three are exceptional, the Goat's Milk bar is so unique and different, that I am still day-dreaming about it almost a week after finishing it.  The tanginess of the goat's milk is the perfect complement to the rich, dark chocolate.  It is a masterpiece.

        After a much longer trip on the R-line (this time long and rough enough to kick in our motion sickness), we arrived back to Fayetteville Street, just a block down from where we started.  We walked to a newer place in town, the coffee shop, Wilmoore Cafe.  We were served a piece of homemade Lemon Bundt Cake, which was a perfectly tart combination to pair with the sweet icing on top.  The owner, David Fowle came over and explained some various methods for making coffee.  We learned that the perfect cup of coffee is made at 200 degrees to extract the most flavor from the ground beans.  He made us an Ethiopian coffee three ways.  He used a French press, another type that filters right as you pour, and a syphon method.  The syphon was the most unique since he heated a round, glass globe filled with water by using a burner.  The heat then syphoned the water from the globe into a beaker above it with a filter and coffee grounds.  The water then blended with the coffee, and once the burner was turned off, the completed coffee returned to the glass globe.  He called it the most pure cup of coffee that you will ever have.  While it was unique, David's obvious passion for coffee and the politics of getting a "fair trade" coffee was just way too over-the-top intense for us.  While the coffee was good, I somehow doubt that this will be a permanent addition to the tour.

        Our Taste Carolina Food Tour was so amazing.  I loved every minute of it.  Our guide Susan was exceptional and I can guarantee that we will be taking another tour with the company in the near future (probably the Chapel Hill/Carrboro one).  This concept, created by Lesley Stracks-Mullem and Joe Philipose is a winner, if I ever saw one.  I love the novelty, the idea, and the restaurants.  I would gladly come and give tours for them any day of the week.  Our guide, Susan, also gave us fodder for a few other restaurants to try in the near future like Clyde Cooper's, Beasley's Chicken & Honey, Chuck's, Mecca, and Dos Taquitos.  So expect posts on some of them soon.  I loved the Taste Carolina Food Tour!  Megan knows me so well, as this was the perfect gift for my birthday.  I guarantee that we will be back and I will definitely recommend taking one of their walking tours to anyone who has any interest in good food.  Thank you for a wonderful birthday Taste Carolina.  

Review of The Midtown Grille, Raleigh

            Let’s start off by getting right to the point.  Chef Scott James, quite possibly, is the best chef at the best restaurant in all of Raleigh.  Yes, it was just that good.  I’ll understand if you stop reading now, as long as you are on your way to the Midtown Grille.  Without question, if there is a special occasion or even an elaborate date, then this is the place to go. 

            Our waiter, Chad, was incredibly informed.  He had previously sampled all of the dishes, could explain any ingredient, and could offer an honest opinion on the dishes.  He made our dining experience very pleasurable and was one of the most helpful waiters that I have ever seen.  The regionally seasonal menu that they have left us with many fresh and creative options to choose from.  In fact, we had much difficulty deciding what to choose given all of the appealing options.  

            With a plethora of specials to choose from (three appetizers and three entrées), our ears perked up when Chad mentioned the Chef’s Macaroni & Cheese.  While it technically was an entrée, he told us that people have ordered it as a shared appetizer.  Megan and I could not resist it.  It arrived in a large, oval casserole dish.  The Vermont Cabot Sharp Cheddar melted through the elbow macaroni.  The cheese sauce was very thick and stuck to the noodles perfectly.  The dish was topped with finely crumbled Ritz crackers and then lightly browned.  It was amazing.  Megan typically compares Macaroni & Cheese to her Grandmother’s, which is great.  Chef James made the first Macaroni and Cheese that is as good as, if not better, than Gran’s.  That is saying something. 

            Megan ordered the Swordfish as her entrée.  The grilled swordfish was served over a lemon and wilted arugula risotto with a red pepper piquillo butter plated at the bottom.  Roasted red peppers and arugula then topped the beautifully cooked swordfish.  Three jumbo NC white shrimp that were a slightly sweet accompaniment to the dish, then adorned the tower of food. Not only was the meal visually stimulating, but the taste was fantastic.  Megan describes it as being perfect, just perfect.  In fact, I was consistently trying to steal bites of her dinner whenever she looked away.   

            I ordered what Chad said was one of the Chef’s signature dishes, the Seared Diver Scallops.  The scallops were seared golden brown on all 360 degrees, almost appearing as if they were fried, but the inside was fresh, lightly opaque, and deliciously sweet.  The four huge scallops were stacked upon a lattice of asparagus, intricately laid out as if the chef was playfully building a log cabin out the vegetable.  Surrounding the scallops was a cauliflower veloute combined with capers, golden raisins, and pancetta.  This dish was very good.  The scallops were bronzed perfectly, but as with most scallop dishes, the four scallops on the dish made me wish for more, despite their impressive size.  The saltiness of the capers and the sweetness of the raisins were a nice addition to the veloute.  While I thought it could use a little more salt to balance the normally bland flavor of cauliflower, the sauce was unexpected and a perfect accompaniment and balance to the sweet scallops.  I would recommend this dish, but I almost wish I tried the Chef’s other specialty, the Ancho chili and espresso rubbed NY Strip as it looked amazing when our neighboring table ordered it.

            For dessert, we ordered the Vanilla Mascarpone Cheesecake.  Wow!  The cheesecake was super creamy and had a thick graham cracker crust.  (We thought the graham cracker crust tasted like it was infused with a ginger snap taste, but our waiter told us we were mistaken.)  The cheesecake had a layer of vanilla-infused mascarpone on top that was delightful.  The triangular plate was drizzled with strawberry and raspberry sauces with the cheesecake placed on top.  Two raspberries adorned the top of the cake.  It was seriously wonderful and a fabulous way to finish our meal.  

            Our evening at The Midtown Grille was wonderful.  In fact, my biggest and only complaint is that their website isn't updated with their summer dinner menu.  We would gladly recommend this restaurant to everyone.  In fact, for any birthday, holiday, or special occasion, this is the restaurant at the top of our list.  Chef Scott James is an artist who has placed the Midtown Grille at the top of Raleigh’s restaurant world.  While it was an expensive evening, this is the place to go for a world-class meal. 

Category	Scale 1-5 stars
Food Quality
Food Creativity
Service
Atmosphere
Value for the price