Thursday, July 12, 2012

Fire in the Triangle: Battle Certified Angus Beef







Competition Dining has been the brainchild of host and restaurateur Jimmy Crippen.  By dividing the state into four regions, he hosts Iron Chef style competition featuring local chefs and ingredients.  On Wednesday July 10th, my wife (on her birthday) and I had the pleasure of attending one of the battles in Fire in the Triangle.  The battle we witnessed was between Chef Scott James of the Midtown Grill in Raleigh and Chef Ryan Payne of Weathervane in Chapel Hill.
For days ahead of the battle, Megan and I were speculating about what the secret ingredient could be.  We feared foods like rabbit, mussels, egg, pigs’ feet, or tomato.  Thankfully, Jimmy Crippen announced that we were at battle Certified Angus Beef!  We were stoked, as we knew both chefs would prepare amazing dishes. 
First keep in mind that this is a blind contest.  In other words, you have no idea which chef prepared which dish until the end of the entire meal.  This way, you can’t vote a better score for your favorite chef and you have to be honest and accurate.  As far as the voting, you judge each dish on six categories: Presentation, Aroma, Flavor, Accompaniments (the things on the dish other than the secret ingredient), Creativity (with the secret ingredient), and Execution of the secret ingredient.  In each category, you can score the dish between a 0 and 5, with a 5 meaning that the dish is greater than what you would expect to get at a very accomplished restaurant.  The audience makes up 70% of the total vote, while the expert, professional judges are the other 30%.  I loved the idea that my opinion would get to count in the results.  Each chef prepares three dishes: an appetizer, a main course, and a dessert.  I’ll be honest, I was both excited and nervous about what desserts the chefs would prepare using angus beef. 
Course one was a Dr. Pepper Bulgogi Skirt Steak, with Radish and Cucumber Kim Chee, Candied Ginger, and Red Rice.  Additionally, there was a small bok choy topping the rice.  I really enjoyed the Asian influences in the first dish, as well as the spiciness of the Kim Chee.  The beef was sliced thinly and was subtly sweet, from the Dr. Pepper, however, it was very fatty and chewy.  The rice was also a little mealy and slightly dry.  This was my first red rice experience, but it seems to be very similar to brown rice in flavor and texture.  While voting should be a secret, since the competition is over, I see no harm in publishing my votes.  I gave this dish a 19 out of 30 with high scores on presentation and accompaniments, and lower scores on creativity and execution.  Later on, we learned this dish was prepared by Chef James of Midtown Grill. 
Course two was a Rosemary Smoked Sirloin, Black Bean and Corn Succotash, Crispy Duck Fat Potatoes, and a Citrus Butter.  The aroma of this dish was amazing.  The potatoes were more of a thin French Fry, but the duck fat, made the flavor pop.  I could have easily eaten a plateful of the potatoes.  No one at my table could taste the rosemary flavor of the sirloin, but it was cooked perfectly medium rare and the lime-flavored citrus butter was a great addition to enhance the steak.  The succotash was good too, but I am not a black bean fan.  Surrounding the dish were a few, well placed drops of  Aged Balsamic Vinegar.  I gave this dish a 22/30 with high scores on everything but the flavor, since without the rosemary flavors, the sirloin was fairly plain, until you add the butter.  This dish was made by Chef Payne of Weathervane. 
Course three was Certified Angus Beef Bolognese topped with a Goat and Ashe County Cheese Tortellini and surrounded by Portobella Mushrooms, Basil, and Extra Virgin Olive Oil.  For starters, the tortellini was amazing!  I mean, these could easily constitute an amazing meal in either restaurant with a simple sauce.  The tartness of the goat cheese accentuated the soft, delicate pasta.  The Bolognese did not impress me though.  Honestly, it reminded me of a high-class Sloppy Joe.  I don’t know why Chef James chose to grind up CAB and mix it with peppers and a tomato base.  I gave this my lowest score of the night, a 14/30, with a high score for accompaniment only.  Strangely, this was also the dish that the professional judges gave their highest score of the night. 
Course four was a Braised Sirloin with Skirt Steak Ragu, Potato Dumplings, and “House Made” Ricotta.  Additionally, there were heated Kalamata Olives surrounding the Ragu.  The steak was very reminiscent of a beef stew.  I did find the irony in the fact that both chefs decided to shred the CAB and put in into a tomato based sauce.  The ricotta was a nice creamy touch that added texture and flavor to the Ragu.  The dumplings were basically just gnocchi, but I loved the addition to the dish.  I scored Chef Payne’s dish an 18/30.  I scored the flavor at a four and creativity at a 2, with everything else a 3.  This would be a good, hearty dish, if served in a large quantity, but for Competition Dining, I guess I just expected a little more. Don’t worry, the creativity overflowed in the desserts. 
Course five was “Meat and Potatoes.”  It was a Cocoa and Molasses crusted CAB Sirloin with a Rosemary Sponge Cake, Balsamic cooked Cherries and a Purple Sweet Potato Custard.  The concept of meat and potatoes for dessert is slightly disturbing, however this was my favorite dish of the entire night.  The sliced sirloin was sweet, the cherries slightly tart due to the Balsamic, and the purple sweet potato custard was just sweet enough to add a great sauce to the dish without overpowering it.  The sponge cake was my favorite though.  The rosemary was very subtle, which was probably good for a dessert.  But the cake had a great dense texture and flavor to die for.  It was all topped with crunchy fried sweet potato strings.  I loved this dish and scored it my highest of the night, a 27/30 with many fives and the lone three for aroma.  Chef James was the author of this dish, which I hope makes it onto Midtown Grill’s dessert menu soon. 
Course six was another dessert titled “Meat and Potatoes.”  This Chef Payne dish was a Potato Doughnut with a Salted Caramel glaze, a Potato Doughnut hole rolled in cinnamon and sugar, Chocolate Candy Covered Skirt Steak, a Lemon Mousse and a Watermelon Jam.  The doughnut came out warm and just melted in your mouth.  This dish had style and finesse.  The sweetness of one doughnut was offset by the slight saltiness of the other.  The Lemon Mousse had a creaminess that could stand-alone or be used as a dip to sweeten the doughnut.  The watermelon jam really didn’t set and most people at my table couldn’t even tell it was there aside from a slight pinkness to a small part of the dish.  Everything to this point was exceptional.  The chocolate steak really didn’t add anything to the dish.  In fact, it was almost like an afterthought that was used just to add the secret ingredient.  While I like chocolate covered bacon, I won’t be ordering chocolate covered steak any time soon.  I gave this dish a 22/30.  The aroma, flavor, presentation, and accompaniments were all exceptional, but the execution of the secret ingredient was uninspired.  I would gladly take more of the doughnuts though. 
At the end of a wonderful night of food and company, Chef Payne of Weathervane was declared the winner.  He scored an approval rating of 72.6% to Chef James’ 69.3%.  I was wrong about predicting which chef made which dish, as well as which chef would win.  Regardless, both chefs prepared amazing food and the camaraderie of the chefs and respect for each other could easily be seen.  In fact, the chefs announced that both of them could be doing a guest chef night at the other’s restaurant.  Be sure to check that out, I bet it will be great.  I wish more tickets were available for other Fire in the Triangle battles, but they sold out very quickly. 
Jimmy Crippen has shot lightning into the NC culinary scene.  I am so happy to say that the Competition Dining will be back next year, because I can’t wait.  Also, I can’t wait until the final battles.  The winners of the Fire on the Dock, Fire on the Rock, Fire in the Triangle, and Fire in the Triad will all compete in a grand finale that will most likely take place in the Raleigh area.  I would advise anyone with an interest in supreme cuisine to be on the lookout for those tickets, they will gone quickly.  

Thursday, July 5, 2012

Review of Britt's Donut Shop, Carolina Beach


            Since 1939, there is only one place in the Wilmington area to get a truly classic and exceptional donut, Britt’s Donut Shop.    Located on the Carolina Beach boardwalk, you can literally smell the fresh donuts from blocks away.  The closer you get, the more your mouth will water, until you can’t help but purchase donuts. 
            Their menu is about as simplistic as it can get.  They sell glazed donuts, only.  However, when you can make every bite seem more magical than the last, that’s all you need to sell.  Sure, you can get fresh brewed coffee or milk to drink, but most people tend to take their donuts out.  My preference is to set my chairs up on the beach, take in some early morning sun, and then get my donuts as soon as they open at 8:30 each morning.  Even though they seem to open later than most donut places, the wait is worth it.  And if you get there after 9:30, then trust me there will be a wait, sometimes 20-30 people deep. 
The donuts are served in a simple, white paper bag. You can order them individually, by the half-dozen, or as I prefer, a dozen at a time for only $7.  Trust me, you can never eat just one…or two.  All of the donuts are fried and turned by hand once they are golden brown.  Then, they are topped with a house-made glaze that is just sweet enough to make you drool.  The donuts are always hot, whether you are there are 8:30am or at 11pm.  They are light, fluffy, and just so amazing that they are hard to describe. 
Britt’s donuts are classic, and something this good should never be messed with.  This place is historic.  Any trip to Carolina Beach is incomplete without donuts from Britt’s.  Families for generations now have been bringing their kids to Britt’s to get fabulous donuts.  And based on the lines I saw, many, many families will continue to feed their children amazing donuts for a long, long time.  

Category
Scale 1-5 stars
Food Quality
\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar
Food Creativity
\bigstar\bigstar
Service
\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar
Atmosphere
\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar
Value for the Price
 \bigstar\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar



Britts Donut Shop on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Review of Olde Salty, Carolina Beach

The Olde Salty restaurant on the boardwalk of Carolina Beach has been around for 19 years.  In that time, they have definitely learned how to make great fried seafood.  Its fun, colorful atmosphere and the fact that it is only steps from the beach, make it a great place for lunch.  Inside, the bar dominates the space as it expands almost the length of the restaurant, but there are still plenty of tables for hungry patrons.  We got there upon opening at 11:30.  While that may be a little later than other places, remember, this is beach time. 
            Megan ordered the Soft-Shell Crab sandwich with fries and slaw on the side.  The crab wasbattered and fried to a perfectly dark brown, with just hints of the red, soft-shell peeking through.  It came out piping hot and on a very fresh, plain Kaiser role.  The sandwich was great.  The fried batter was crispy, yet light and was perfectly seasoned.  Every bite of the crab was amazing.  The fact that they have soft-shell crab on their menu year-round is great, even though I thought soft-shell crabs were only around part of the year.  The fries were hot and fresh with a perfect pinch of salt added.  The slaw is definitely intended to top on the sandwich, but Megan opted not to.  It was just creamy enough to hold the slaw texture while adding bits of pickle.  It is not a stand alone side, but it is a perfect accompaniment to the fried sandwich. 
I ordered the Fried Shrimp sandwich with a side of fries.  If I had to sum this up on one word, it would be Fabulous!  Last year, I was highly disappointed in a “shrimp burger” from El’s Diner in Morehead city, so I was hesitant.  I am so glad I ordered it.  The medium sized shrimp were fried in a light batter that left them thinly coated with batter, but yet perfectly crunchy.  The shrimp were very hot and filled up the sandwich roll and about half of the remaining space on the plate.  I love generous amounts of food.  I took the waitress/owner’s suggestion and got their homemade tartar sauce on the bottom half of the bun and their slaw on the top half.  The taste combination of perfectly seasoned and cooked shrimp with slaw and tartar was virtually orgasmic.  I gobbled my sandwich with glee.  The fries were a nice accompaniment, but if I could suggest a slight change to the owner, advertise them as “beach fries” or “crab fries” and season them with some Old Bay spices.  I think it could be a big draw. 
            In order to successfully write about Olde Salty, I must bring up their most newsworthy accessory.  They have a sign near the front door that says, “Screaming Children will NOT be Tolerated.”  This sign has set off a huge debate among parents and has gotten Olde Salty mentioned in news sources both locally and nationally (MSNBC, youtube, etc.).  Some people claim that it is anti-child, but that’s not what it says at all.  My take is that they realize that other diners don’t like unruly children running around and screaming.  Now most good parents will voluntarily take their child out of any situation where their child is a huge distraction, but some parents today apparently don’t care, hence the sign.  I applaud them for doing finally saying what many people have been thinking quietly to themselves.  Yes, all children are welcome at Olde Salty, but parent need to be in control of them, as they should be in any situation.  Heck, I would ask the owner to take the sign to a new level and mention that “screaming or unruly children OR adults will not be tolerated.”  While some parents are very touchy on this issue (and probably are the ones who need their child removed), most adults are level headed enough that they do not want the experience of other diners ruined by an unruly person. 
            Olde Salty is quickly becoming a Carolina Beach classic.  With their great quality, fresh food, and fun atmosphere, it is the place to take a break from the hot sun and fill up your belly.  I’ll definitely be back and trust me, for a simple, quality lunch at the beach, this is the place to go (unless you can’t control your kids). 


Category
Scale 1-5 stars
Food Quality
\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar
Food Creativity
\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar
Service
\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar
Atmosphere
\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar
Value for the Price
 \bigstar\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar


Olde Salty on Urbanspoon

Review of Tangerine Caribbean Grill, Carolina Beach

            For a place that touts itself as bringing the Key West island magic to Carolina Beach, I expected just that.  However, I found myself feeling as though the magician’s biggest trick was a failed, simplistic card trick.  I really should take Urbanspoon’s ratings into more consideration, especially when only 33% of the people who visited Tangerine actually liked it. 
            Let’s call it like it is, the Tangerine Caribbean Grill is more of a bar than a restaurant.  The massive bar inside takes up almost half of the interior.  However, there is a patio and rooftop dining in case you prefer outdoor dining.  Inside the dining room, it is alive with color, as any Caribbean restaurant should be.  It is a fun atmosphere to dine in, with a fake palm tree in the center of the room for added ambiance. 
            For our appetizer, we ordered the Paradise Crab Dip (they need to correct the spelling on theirwebsite too, unless they are serving a Pradise Crab Dip).  It combines crab, supposedly lump, with horseradish, and melted cheeses.  It is then served with warmed pita bread.  Honestly, it was a very good dip; not the best I’ve ever tasted, but far from the worst.  There was just enough horseradish to add a mild heat to the crab, making it rather delectable.  Also, the slightly charred top surface added a nice texture difference to the melted combination underneath.  If we ever go back, we won’t, but if we ever did, I would order this again. 
            Megan ordered the Jamaican Crab Cakes.  They were, as advertised, blue crab with red and green peppers in the cake.  It mentions a roasted corn and mango salad, but on the crab were chunks of mango and a few kernels of corn.  The cakes themselves were overcooked, but they did have a decent taste to them when lightly dipped in the Dijon sauce.  For her sides, Megan got the sweet potato fries, which she said was the best part of the meal and the fried potatoes.  Neither one really deserves much writing, as I couldn’t even tell the fries were house-made.  The Crab Cake meal was decent enough that I would recommend it to someone who ventures into Tangerine, but I have no idea what makes them Jamaican other than their name. 
I ordered the Yellow fin Tuna served “Island Spiced and Seared” style.  First off, the tuna was small, very small for the $20 price.  It was seared nicely and was clearly very fresh.  That’s where the niceties end.  The Island spices were barely present.  Flavor did not exist in this dish.  Perhaps I should have tried one of the other styles like blackened or rum and citrus grilled, but I didn’t.  And if a restaurant is going to advertise island spices, then they should produce them.  My sides were pasta salad and French Fries.  The fries were without salt or seasoning and most likely came from a frozen bag.  Additionally, they were slightly undercooked.  The pasta salad was inedible.  It was multicolored rotini pasta with julienned carrots and black olive slices.  Then, what I believe was the powdered, grated Parmesan that Kraft makes, was mixed into the pasta.  No Italian dressing, no flavor of any kind, just dry, chalky pasta.  It was horrible. 
            The Tangerine Caribbean Grill has no idea what Caribbean is.  Caribbean food is about big, bold, spicy flavors.  Sure, I understand that restaurants need to pander to the moderate eaters and not the adventurous, but they need some help in a major way.  They are Caribbean in name alone.  I’ll be honest, I really wanted to like this place.  I love Caribbean food, culture, and ambiance.  But the food was just flat and uninspired.  Maybe it was the fact that we were there at about 4pm on a Sunday night, but time or day should never impact quality. 


Category
Scale 1-5 stars
Food Quality
\bigstar\bigstar
Food Creativity
\bigstar
Service
\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar
Atmosphere
\bigstar\bigstar\bigstar
Value for the Price
 \bigstar\bigstar

Tangerine Carribbean Grille on Urbanspoon